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Post by Adam on Jul 25, 2024 1:56:53 GMT
The control panel is fantastic! I’d love to learn more about how you made it. The control panel started as a drawing made with Microsoft Visio. I have been using this tool for 20+ years. The big blue dots are the spots for the toggle switches. The smaller dots indicate the future positions of 5mm LEDs. I used Visio's library of shapes to create Pennsy style tower sign. If you don't want to pay for Vision, there is a similar open-source (free) program called Dia. In fact, there are many, many others. Google "Visio clones". Anyway, that's how this drawing was created. I printed it in as vibrant a manner as possible. Then it was off to Staples to have it laminated (4mm or 5mm).
I painted both sides of a section of 1/8" Masonite with a Behr paint color called Moroccan Henna; that's the color of the fascia. Then I used 3M77, a spray adhesive, to fasten the laminated drawing to the Masonite.
Using a 7/16" Forstner bit, I drilled out the holes for the toggle switches. For the 5mm LEDs, I used a #10 bit from this set. A friend gave me that tip.
After you remove the top nut and position indicator, you can screw the toggle switches right into the Masonite. When you space the toggles on the board, make sure you leave enough space for them to turn 360 degrees as they are screwed into place. See how closely they are placed?
After that, it's time to place the terminal blocks. You'll need two - one for + and one for -. Use a jumper bar.
I'll get to the wiring in the next post.
George
Thanks! This is great. I want to do something like this for my next layout (three ovals don't really call for it, LOL).
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Post by atsda on Jul 25, 2024 20:54:33 GMT
George, great work. I will be getting to the control area of my new layout soon. I do also use many toggle switches; and also conventional switch controllers and push buttons and other items. Thanks for the reminder about Masonite. Alfred
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Post by g3750 on Jul 26, 2024 3:25:50 GMT
Updated 7/25/2024:
For toggle switches activating 2 LEDs and a Tortoise switch machine, the wiring diagram looks like this: This will cause 1 LED to be ON when the other is OFF. In other words, when the toggle is thrown, the LEDs will swap aspect. I have a friend who repairs RC cars and does a lot of soldering. I got him to do this very professional job (note the heat shrink).
Now it's time to make the supports that will hold the control panel to the bench work and fascia. Cut two pieces of 1"x2". Make one end a 10 degree cut. Attach them to the back of the panel.
The LEDs are pushed into the board from the back. Use CA to glue them into place. Then connect them as per the wiring diagram. Here's the back of the WC control panel with just the LEDs for Switch #3.
Finally, after connecting all the wires (you may have to swap them at the Tortoise) here's the correctly functioning #3 switch.
George
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Post by g3750 on Jul 27, 2024 3:06:06 GMT
Updated 7/26/2024:
Went as far as I could tonight. I am 1 Z-Zips edge connector (for Tortoise switch machines) short. Will be making a run to Hobby Express tomorrow.
We are that close to getting the Weirton Junction (WC) tower control panel fully operational.
George
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Post by healey36 on Jul 27, 2024 11:33:37 GMT
How far is it to Hobby Express? Closest decent shop to me is Mainline up in Highfield, a seventy mile round trip.
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Post by g3750 on Jul 27, 2024 15:01:16 GMT
How far is it to Hobby Express? Closest decent shop to me is Mainline up in Highfield, a seventy mile round trip. From me? Under 4 miles. Hobby Express is located in Cranberry Township, PA (north of Pittsburgh just across the Butler County line). The do ship things all the time and they are very easy to work with. Actually, I'm a former employee there. 724-779-2000.
They are a fully loaded hobby shop - trains (G, O, S, HO, N), track, transformers, locomotives, cars as well as buildings, accessories, scenic materials, and electronic components. In addition, they carry RC cars, boats, planes, model rockets, slot cars, paint, a full line of model cars, planes, ships, diecast cars and trucks, Gundam, figures of all types, puzzles, stuffed animals, and educational / scientific toys. I'm probably forgetting something.
They are easily best hobby store I have seen ever. And if they don't have it, they will get it for you if it is obtainable.
George
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Post by josef on Jul 27, 2024 18:35:36 GMT
How far is it to Hobby Express? Closest decent shop to me is Mainline up in Highfield, a seventy mile round trip. From me? Under 4 miles. Hobby Express is located in Cranberry Township, PA (north of Pittsburgh just across the Butler County line). The do ship things all the time and they are very easy to work with. Actually, I'm a former employee there. 724-779-2000.
They are a fully loaded hobby shop - trains (G, O, S, HO, N), track, transformers, locomotives, cars as well as buildings, accessories, scenic materials, and electronic components. In addition, they carry RC cars, boats, planes, model rockets, slot cars, paint, a full line of model cars, planes, ships, diecast cars and trucks, Gundam, figures of all types, puzzles, stuffed animals, and educational / scientific toys. I'm probably forgetting something.
They are easily best hobby store I have seen ever. And if they don't have it, they will get it for you if it is obtainable.
George
Thanks. I saw they had a website also and checked them out. Your right, they have a lot of stuff.
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Post by healey36 on Jul 27, 2024 20:10:20 GMT
How far is it to Hobby Express? Closest decent shop to me is Mainline up in Highfield, a seventy mile round trip. From me? Under 4 miles. Hobby Express is located in Cranberry Township, PA (north of Pittsburgh just across the Butler County line). The do ship things all the time and they are very easy to work with. Actually, I'm a former employee there. 724-779-2000.
They are a fully loaded hobby shop - trains (G, O, S, HO, N), track, transformers, locomotives, cars as well as buildings, accessories, scenic materials, and electronic components. In addition, they carry RC cars, boats, planes, model rockets, slot cars, paint, a full line of model cars, planes, ships, diecast cars and trucks, Gundam, figures of all types, puzzles, stuffed animals, and educational / scientific toys. I'm probably forgetting something.
They are easily best hobby store I have seen ever. And if they don't have it, they will get it for you if it is obtainable.
George
You’re fortunate to have such a shop so close. Mainline is well-stocked, but it’s a bit of a haul getting there.
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Post by g3750 on Jul 28, 2024 0:59:19 GMT
Updated 7/27/2024:
I finished the Weirton Junction (WC) control panel today. Let's look at some photos.
First up, this is a pair of indicator LEDs that a friend soldered for me. Another friend provided the circuit design. They are long leg (+) to short leg (-) so that when power is applied, one is lit and the other is off. Flip the toggle and the reverse happens (as well as throwing the turnout).
These are all glued into the back of the control panel using CA glue. A medium viscosity formula gives me enough time to press them into the holes. I used color coding, spiral wire wrap, and zip-ties to keep the mess somewhat under control. Green for ground and white for hot. Tortoises are powered by 12VDC.
More wire wrap here to keep me from snagging wires when I move around under the layout on my rolling stool.
Finally, here's a look at the fully populated, operational control panel for Weirton Junction tower.
And just for fun, I moved one of the I1s Decapods in front of the Open Hearth for a couple of "glamor" shots.
More when I know it.
George
Attachments:
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Post by Adam on Jul 28, 2024 2:42:34 GMT
You are very organized with your wiring and work in general. I could learn some things from you.
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Post by g3750 on Jul 28, 2024 3:27:56 GMT
You are very organized with your wiring and work in general. I could learn some things from you. Thank you. Being organized is the lesson I learned the hard way.
Generally, I have multiple projects going on in some way, shape, or form. I've got to keep things organized so that I can move to the next thing when I get blocked. I tend to use project bins to store stuff when I acquire it.
Specifically, the organized control panels with their spiral wrap and zip-tied wires are the result of my sloppy, let's get it done somehow approach to wiring my Open Hearth's control panel. I was under a time crunch and didn't do a good job. Now, I need to open up that building (remove sides and possibly the Charging Floor) and re-run / check all the wiring. Since last summer when I finished it and took pictures, I've lost the use of one smokestack's lights and the smoke generator. At times the interior lights flash, indicating two circuits are in contact somewhere. It will be an ugly process - one I am not planning to repeat.
George
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Post by g3750 on Aug 2, 2024 1:30:30 GMT
Updated 8/1/2024:
I resolved 2 issues tonight. First, my double-headed signal had stopped working. Upon close inspection of the Arduino, I saw that several wires had popped out of their screw terminals. This is because someone (I have no idea who) must have bumped into the mounting board while moving around under the layout. The lesson learned here is to do a better job of: - Mounting any such board so that it doesn't hang down and get run into.
- Do a better (neater) and more direct job of routing the wiring so that it stays out of the way.
Here is a photo of the repaired and remounted Arduino board. It now is screwed to the bottom of the bench work.
Second (with the help of Dennis Zander of Z-Stuff), I got the Tortoise switch machine to operate the DZ-1060 PRR position signal. Left: The switch set to straight & signal to CLEAR. Center: Switch is set against direction of travel and signal indicates STOP. Right: switch is set back to straight and the signal is returning to CLEAR.
I will now wire 2 of the other signals operated by the Tortoises as well as 2 block occupancy circuits.
More when I know it.
George
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Post by g3750 on Aug 3, 2024 15:47:29 GMT
Updated 8/3/2024:
Here's the score regarding PRR signals as of yesterday: - All 3 signals operated by Tortoises - Switches #3, #17, #35 are operational
- All 3 signals operated by insulated rail (block occupancy) are operational
- Dual-headed signal operated by Arduino and the position of Tortoise Switches #9 and #10 are operational
Still to be fixed: - Signal on Staging Exit Track just before it joins the Westbound Mainline (Switch #36)
- Bridge signal that interacts with Switch #36 (it indicates CLEAR when Switch #36 indicates STOP and vice-versa)
- PRR signal bridge at west end of the Ohio River bridge; this was operational prior to swapping DZ-2500s for Tortoises and will have to be redone.
Experimentation with Arduino using a distance sensor is in progress. This is for my Slag Dump animation.
More when I know it.
George
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Post by healey36 on Aug 4, 2024 14:56:30 GMT
Those are sharp looking signals.
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Post by g3750 on Aug 6, 2024 20:57:26 GMT
Those are sharp looking signals. Thank you. The single head signals are Z-Stuff DZ-1060 PRR 7 light position signals. There is an application noe on the Z-Stuff website describing how to make them work with Tortoise switch machines. George |
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