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Post by Mopacman on Nov 30, 2023 3:00:58 GMT
Good evening. I am thinking about re-doing my O scale layout. The new layout would be 20 feet long and 30 feet wide. I run conventional Williams, MTH, and Lionel engines. Would my trusty Lionel ZW layout be powerful enough to use for my new layout? I tend to run both freight and passenger trains, sometimes running up to 10 lighted passenger cars with an MTH Railking engine. This layout will primarily be used for running a train with a minimum amount of switching. Finally got my 30' x 50' shed built, and want to devote the back 20' to having an elevated loft built for running my trains.
Would appreciate some input.
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Post by trainman9 on Nov 30, 2023 15:46:45 GMT
I would think a PW 275 Watt ZW would work just fine. I would suggest you change out the lighting in the passenger cars to LED’s. Also install fast acting fuses and Transient Voltage Supressors to protect the electronics in your engines. You may want a separate transformer for accessories and switches but the PW ZW might work just fine.
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Post by dennym57 on Nov 30, 2023 15:59:28 GMT
I would use a different transformer for lights and accessories.
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Post by steveoncattailcreek on Nov 30, 2023 19:01:58 GMT
Yeah, I think you should do just fine, unless you have a lot of high-draw items running on your layout -- I've used one for several years now, and it has filled my needs. The ZW has four conventional throttles (two of which are less accessible in a hurry IME), so that limits the number of conventional engines you can control at any given time, of course. Also, I have found advancing any throttle tends to slightly retard available power (and engine speed) on loops controlled by the other throttles. I agree that all accessories should be on separate transformer(s) -- why waste a throttle on a fixed-voltage output, and small transformers are cheap and powerful enough for most accessory needs.
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Post by Mopacman on Nov 30, 2023 22:14:49 GMT
Thanks to everyone for your input. I have several smaller voltage transformers that would be excellent for accessories. I currently use a Dallee 10 amp surge suppressor for protection on my engines.
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Post by david1 on Dec 1, 2023 1:21:58 GMT
I use a ZW for my layout where I run TMCC and and Legacy although I don't run passenger cars. My scenery includes 30 dept 56 buildings and about 25 lighted trees. All lights are leds. I have two main lines where I run two command diesels on each track. I do protect the ZW with 10amp fast blow fuses on each throttle.
Have fun with your layout, any questions just ask, someone here knows.
Dave
Dave
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Post by Country Joe on Dec 1, 2023 2:37:04 GMT
The ZW should have plenty of juice to power your layout. Modern engines require far less power than post-war engines and a ZW was able to run 4 post-war trains with ease.
If you run any engines with modern electronics I would recommend using fast blow fuses or circuit breakers on each throttle. The circuit breakers in older transformers are very slow and will fry modern circuit boards.
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Post by steveoncattailcreek on Dec 1, 2023 2:59:37 GMT
If you run any engines with modern electronics I would recommend using fast blow fuses or circuit breakers on each throttle. The circuit breakers in older transformers are very slow and will fry modern circuit boards. . . . and, even running conventional, if any of your rolling stock has electronics (e.g., is more modern than postwar), you'll want to add surge suppression via TVS diodes, at minimum at each throttle circuit on the transformer, and better near/on the electronics intended to be protected. I bought some TVS diodes even though I have not been running any circuit board-equipped equipment, but have yet to install them (so, "do as I say, not as I do"? ). There's also the question of fuses vs. circuit breakers. Low-amp automotive-type fuses (5-10 amp) are a cheap and easy way to protect both your transformer *and* your rolling stock, at the cost of having to replace the (relatively inexpensive) fuse after each short. Thermal circuit breakers are a bit more but still cheap (I use 5 amp versions on my layout) and easy to reset after any short, but may be too slow acting to fully protect sensitive electronics. IMHO, if you have expensive electronics and modern rolling stock to protect, and you want to be able to reset rather than replace your protection, there are more expensive magnetic/hydraulic 'instant' circuit breakers available. An ounce of prevention . . .
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Post by dlagrua on Dec 2, 2023 15:05:49 GMT
My layout is an around the room 28' x 15' with a 4'x 12' center section. There are four separate loops and four trains are run at a time. The power source is two P/W ZW transformers and one 90W for lighting. Those old transformers are very powerful and handle everything with ease. If you wanted to you could even weld with one of them.
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Post by healey36 on Dec 3, 2023 13:32:59 GMT
What about at the wall? How much of this stuff can you power off of a typical wall socket (or two) before you risk overloading the circuit?
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Post by highvoltage on Dec 3, 2023 13:46:58 GMT
What about at the wall? How much of this stuff can you power off of a typical wall socket (or two) before you risk overloading the circuit? A typical wall socket is at least 15 amps. 15 amps x 120 VAC = 1,800 watts. In other words, quite a bit.
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Post by healey36 on Dec 3, 2023 18:25:14 GMT
What about at the wall? How much of this stuff can you power off of a typical wall socket (or two) before you risk overloading the circuit? A typical wall socket is at least 15 amps. 15 amps x 120 VAC = 1,800 watts. In other words, quite a bit. Thanks for that...it's something that has occasionally concerned me when I contemplate the stuff I've got plugged it at the wall.
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Post by highvoltage on Dec 4, 2023 14:32:49 GMT
A typical wall socket is at least 15 amps. 15 amps x 120 VAC = 1,800 watts. In other words, quite a bit. Thanks for that...it's something that has occasionally concerned me when I contemplate the stuff I've got plugged it at the wall. I suspect you're nowhere close to maxing out.
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