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Post by RLM on Jun 11, 2020 19:56:56 GMT
Hi to all!!Here is a step by step assembly for a RLM structure. I will try to do it clear possible. Comments and questions are more than welcome. Materials: Carpenter glue, squares, cheap brush for glue.
Get familiar with the main four walls.
Most of our models the front and read walls hold the side walls.
Start gluing the walls. Apply glue on each end face of side walls one at the time. (carpenter glue) and connect with the front wall. three to five minutes each. Squares are necessary but not mandatory. Plastic squares are good enough. Keep the edges flush respectably.
As soon the first side wall is glued but not completely. put the building in 90 degrees and glue the second side wall.
At this point, glue the other side walls end and install the rear wall.
Total time for all this probably 15 minutes!!
As soon the rear wall is installed, the building could be tighten using rubber bands, as much as you can. to keep the squareness you can use the roof provided in the kit, inserting it on the top, aligning the corners to be flush. Be careful to do not glue the roof wrongly.
set up the roof perfectly horizontal while the rubber band still holding the building. using a brush with carpenter glue or Mod podge seal the roof from inside and out side. I like mod podge because is more liquid and penetrate better.
Wait for 10 minutes to remove the rubber bands. check the corners for misalignment (normally occurred in 0.030" or less.) in case some are found, the structure is robust enough to sand it .
Your structure is ready for painting! The time involved probably 30 min in total!!
No dust. No breakable parts. No warps walls. No smelly glues.
Andre.
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Post by laz57 on Jun 11, 2020 20:26:33 GMT
Awesome 😎 ANDRE!! Very good tips. These RLM are great fun to build.
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Post by RLM on Jun 11, 2020 22:05:15 GMT
Awesome 😎 ANDRE!! Very good tips. These RLM are great fun to build. Thanks George!! Next step painting and weathering the main structure. Andre.
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Post by ptc on Jun 11, 2020 22:09:41 GMT
Glad you posted this, Andre. The folks can easily see how well your models are constructed and how easy they are to assemble.
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Post by josef on Jun 11, 2020 22:51:54 GMT
Can't wait for Andre's next building kit. I've got a few empty areas and some I would like to replace. There's something about Andre's kits when completed that make the layout stand out.
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Post by RLM on Jun 12, 2020 16:07:41 GMT
Can't wait for Andre's next building kit. I've got a few empty areas and some I would like to replace. There's something about Andre's kits when completed that make the layout stand out. This one is one of the new buildings. a transition building between downtown and industrial. moving slow, but moving. AG.
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Post by RLM on Jun 13, 2020 1:21:40 GMT
Hi to all!! After the glue dry for few hours we will proceed to paint it. the color we will use are Red Ocre, Black, and Grey Chalk Paint.
Materials: Ocre paint Black paint Grey paint Rough paint brush different size Soft small paint brush.
First we will start painting the exposed brick using red ocre and small amount of black to change the tone.
Using a razor or a flat screwdriver, you can remove some brick to add realism.
Retouch the removed bricks using raw Red Ocre.
After you finished painting all exposed brick including the front, we will proceed to paint the stucco. The Grey Chalk paint will add realism to your stucco. is more expensive than a regular paint, but the quality achieve worth the money. Paint always from the top to the bottom and never left to right.(please)
The grey paint will mix a little with the red making a nice haze around the expose brick. The light color in the picture is fresh grey paint, but if stay that way is even better!! Using a soft brush retouch the red or grey, depending the overlap.
Using the dry brush technique, brush from top to the bottom the top building edge to crate black mold.
Now your building is half done. the wall treatment is not done yet, but the main pain it is. Without noticed all the paint process make a natural weathering.
Let the building dry well at least one night before we start the mortar.
Time elapsed 40 minutes total!! and I forgot to include the roof paint picture, but was just black like tar. Purist will use masking tape. (Agree)
Stay tuned!!
Andre.Attachments:
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Post by thebigcrabcake on Jun 13, 2020 7:59:52 GMT
Andre,
You’re paint techniques produce first-class results. I’m going to give them a try. Thanks for this excellent tutorial.
Emile
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Post by josef on Jun 13, 2020 8:49:04 GMT
Excellent teaching technique.
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Post by laz57 on Jun 13, 2020 12:24:46 GMT
You DA MAN ANDRE!!!! Great tootalige on painting.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 13, 2020 13:50:52 GMT
WOW!! What a way to construct a building. We love our River Leaf Models. I didn't know they could be built this way. Bill insists on wallpaper, carpet, lighting, furniture, and people. In other words, complete decor for each building. You know who the interior decorator is.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 13, 2020 14:11:32 GMT
Thanks Andre!! I'm sure many of us who have been sitting on the fence thinking about building kits and painting/weathering them will take the plunge now. Great thread! Gary.
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Post by fabforrest on Jun 13, 2020 14:53:48 GMT
This should go in the OGF University thread.
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Post by RLM on Jun 13, 2020 19:30:30 GMT
thank you guys for the nice comments!! I hope this will help! Andre.
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Post by RLM on Jun 13, 2020 20:00:23 GMT
Today, The Mortar. The Mortar is for some modelers a nightmare, but many products and techniques are available to make this experience more pleasant. I will show one, that work with RLM models and probably with few others as well. After your structure paint work is totally dry, we will proceed to apply the mortar. This one could be white or you can add tints before applying to achieve the result you want. in this case will be plain white. I like to use the DAP spackling compound. There are few types, the best one is the red cap, like the one in the picture. Start applying the spackling using an old credit cart or similar. Use small amount and do it quick pushing the mortar into the grooves. if some areas are uncovered let them as is. Using the finger is a good option, some people doesn't like to touch construction material with a bare hands, but using a glove could help. The idea using the finger, is the control you have while applying the mortar, because you apply it and in the same time you clean it. The Spackling compound is a paint solvent so leaving it too long will remove the color contaminating the mortar.
Let it dry for few minutes.
Then we will apply indian ink solution. Indian ink, available is few colors, will give great mold, grime and "moss" effect. the corners and brick structures bottoms are exposed to water concentration due lack of sun light and temperature. with those condition mold and moss tend to appears.
Indian ink black, will give us nice mold details, sepia will change some tones, and green will give us the moss color.
Black and sepia will applied on all places where the mortar is missing.
Do you remember the bricks removed in purpose? check how they look now. The use of raw red ocre make is looks like a fresh brick. Probably you dont like that way, No problem! Just finished the mortar and the building will look beautiful with the brick and white mortar contrast. All this process was no more than 30 min!
Next step the Chalk powder!!
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