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Post by Mahoning Division on Oct 13, 2024 0:19:04 GMT
Here is one you don't see every day. An older Sunset Models era C&O J class 4-8-2 from around 1978 / 79. I found this one last year and even though these models are infamous for having weak gearboxes, someone put a very nice paint job on it, so I could not resist. It took me a while, but I managed to tweak the drive and then installed a TCSWOW 501 DCC decoder and my usual stereo pair of Tang Band speakers with 2 in the tender and 2 in the boiler. In this case it has 1931's in the tender and small 1925's in the boiler. I also reworked the boiler weight and added an LED headlight while I was at it. It is still a work in progress but so far I'm very pleased with how it is turning out.
Enjoy!
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Post by david1 on Oct 13, 2024 3:12:59 GMT
Nice, runs and sounds great. Thanks for the video!!
Dave
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Post by josef on Oct 13, 2024 9:59:57 GMT
You did good. Thanks for sharing.
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Post by harmonyards on Oct 13, 2024 11:18:17 GMT
Really seems to run very well for being an older sunset, …..what did you do to the drive? ……these are known for a pretty pathetic gear box arrangement……nice work you’ve done!….this is my cup of tea!..
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VBR
New Member
Posts: 32
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Post by VBR on Oct 13, 2024 11:40:12 GMT
Anybody else notice how the motor control at the start speed beats by far anything we have in 3-rail? You get the impression of a massive object just breaking inertia and starting to creep.
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Post by Mahoning Division on Oct 13, 2024 12:59:52 GMT
Really seems to run very well for being an older sunset, …..what did you do to the drive? ……these are known for a pretty pathetic gear box arrangement……nice work you’ve done!….this is my cup of tea!.. Pat, Pathetic is an understatement for this one. It was literally the worst I have seen for 2 Rail brass gearboxes. I was amazed to find the entire box is made of molded plastic - possibly Delrin as it is very soft. So far - I have done your basic rebuild on it: 1.) Complete tear down to running chassis and inspected for quartering and rolling resistance. 2.) I had to re-quarter the main driver and while I was at it, took all the rods off and polished all the driver axels. 3.) There were 3 older ball bearings in it - all replaced. 4.) Chemically clean the worm and drive gears and soften the original drive belt - I do not believe it had ever been run and the belt was hardened to the point it could not turn. 5.) I took all 3 pieces of the original gearbox, sanded them so they fit together square and flat, removed some of the inner side wall of the gearbox halves - I think they were pressing on the worm gear, then reamed the holes for the belt drive axel and the main driver so everything turns freely - this made a huge difference. 6.) I shimmed the belt drive axel and took all the play out 7.) Should all of the above not work out, I had pics and your Email address ready to get your advice on what to do next! So far all seems to be working. When I was breaking in the chassis after the rebuild, I forgot it was running on my bench. I came back about 28 hrs. later and it was still going just fine and none of the rods were loose or screws falling out! I'll take it - LOL!
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bob
New Member
Posts: 49
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Post by bob on Oct 13, 2024 13:16:18 GMT
Really nice work. What did you do to soften the original drive belt?
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Post by Mahoning Division on Oct 13, 2024 18:51:38 GMT
Really nice work. What did you do to soften the original drive belt? Took a chance and used CRC 2-26. Gave the belt a couple of shots and let it sit over night. Worked well and then added just a little bit when I broke in the running chassis.
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Post by harmonyards on Oct 14, 2024 0:54:02 GMT
That’s really nice & smooth for a belt drive …..whenever possible, I get rid of the belt drive, and make my own drive line ……with 3 rail stuff, it’s aggravating to dial in the electronics with belt drive ….they always seem to pulse & lope no matter how I try & adjust it all out…..personally, I can’t stand belt drive,……nice trick to soften the belt …….I have fiddled & fiddled with belt drive, ….even went as far as making a spring loaded tensioner pulley, so the lost motion wouldn’t be so prevalent, …….I now happily notch the underside of any brass boiler, and link the motor direct to the gear box via a stainless steel constant velocity drive shaft …..
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