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Post by atsda on Sept 15, 2024 3:40:50 GMT
After George’s (G3750) ’Public Service Announcement’ related to the recent fire on his layout, I began thinking about layout safety.
What is the safety rating for your layout?
Here are some items to consider:
Smoke detector in the room?
Fire extinguisher nearby?
Any frayed electric cords?
Equipment that can be grounded is grounded?
Circuit/ power/ track/ protection?
Overloaded power strips/ outlets?
Loose or bare wires?
Properly operating tools in good condition?
Any structural/ physical hazards?
Proper ventilation / storage of solvents/ flammables?
First Aid kit?
Do you wear eye/ ear protection when needed?
Anything else to consider?
Alfred
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Post by mrmeep on Sept 15, 2024 5:34:41 GMT
My layout room and layouts are constructed to follow and agree with the National Electrical Code and the NFPA Life Safety Code Everything is triple protected, over-engineered and wired far in excess of The Codes.
I have had school groups and tours through my layouts, so I also adhere to the Americans with Disabilities Act, with wheelchair sized aisles, smoke detectors, extinguishers, standby lighting and proper EXIT signage for egress that is directly to the outside.
Spent my life in the Fire Service doing not only firefighting but also inspections, code enforcement, pre-con conferences, system maintenance and even some consulting. So it all came natural to me and was easy since I started with "a blank sheet" when I moved into my present home.
I do, however, use real period electrical gear, but it is all thoroughly, inspected, rehabbed and safetyed, so as to be safer than when originally built. All cordage is replaced with heavier and newer cords, and 120VAC outlets on the tables are housed in proper junction/switch boxes and on their own breakers.
NOTHING is "live" unless I am present. The layout is ALWAYS switched off AND unplugged from the house when not in use. Transformers are circuit breaker protected both at 120VAC and Low Voltage sides. Lighting is on its own protected power supply. Accessories are on their own power sources. Trackage is wired with 12AWG and 14AWG stranded and soldered at all joints. Control panels are wired with 14AWG stranded and end in lugs which properly and solidly terminate in barrier strips or the controller itself if designed. Doesn't matter if the voltage is 6 or 24 VAC.
All 120VAC wiring meets NEC and terminates in proper junction boxes and is fastened with the proper wire nuts and/or terminates at the proper rated switch gear.
Everything is double grounded. My system uses independent transformers that run isolated circuits, thus, they do not need "phasing". All power supplies/transformers have AT LEAST 20% reserve capacity so as to accommodate any surge, or age-related resistances that may appear. All wiring is run in aircraft-grade looms and bundles. I have schematics at the control panels for everything to aid in any troubleshooting or repairs.
So far, the layouts have existed for over 21 years with no problems other than some maintenance on some of those 100 year old Lionel tinplate switch motors. Not bad!
I learned at a very early age to respect electricity and was taught well about wiring, design and execution as both my Grandfather and my Dad were Engineers in several disciplines. Then came my career which reinforced the habits and methods. So this is all second nature to me.
Plus, do it RIGHT the FIRST time and you don't have to do it over later!
Hope this all helps.
PS ... I have seen first hand what happens if one doesn't respect the power of electricity and if one doesn't use good habits in wiring and construction. So there is that ...
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Post by mrmeep on Sept 15, 2024 5:41:21 GMT
Little safety and layout reliability tip.
You should NEVER have splices in your wiring! It should be just like a building/residence.
Wiring should AWLAYS be "home run" from point to point with NO BREAKS OR SPLICES! This prevents bad joints, resistances, voltage dropouts, HEAT, FIRE and possible equipment failures.
If you are going to make changes, run new wiring dedicated for them. DO NOT "tap in" to a convenient wire just to save time.
Do it RIGHT once, and you don't have to do it again.
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Post by atsda on Sept 16, 2024 2:53:02 GMT
mrmeep, thank you for the comprehensive review. You have an impressive system. Alfred
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Post by atsda on Sept 16, 2024 2:54:25 GMT
BTW, I have stopped transport of chlorine and high-level nuclear waste in my tank cars. Alfred
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Post by healey36 on Sept 16, 2024 12:55:49 GMT
The only thing I occasionally worry about is the old dehumidifier that runs nearly non-stop in the basement. That thing can get pretty hot on damp days, running for 36 hours or so before requiring emptying.
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Post by atsda on Sept 16, 2024 13:08:38 GMT
Paul, keep an eye on that unit. Maybe replace it if it is getting old. Alfred
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Post by steveoncattailcreek on Sept 16, 2024 15:42:50 GMT
The only thing I occasionally worry about is the old dehumidifier that runs nearly non-stop in the basement. That thing can get pretty hot on damp days, running for 36 hours or so before requiring emptying. Maybe you should consider upgrading to a whole house-type dehumidifier. You *can* have it installed in the HVAC system to cover your whole house, or just do as I did, which was to leave it freestanding in the train room (i.e., not connected to the ductwork), with the condensate channeled to a drain. In my case, I set it up in a corner of the basement, directly above a dry well installed earlier as part of the basement's water control measures, and set it to 55% relative humidity. In capacity, it can easily handle the basement area without exceeding its rated duty cycle, and the condensate goes directly into the sump and is periodically pumped out of the house. To echo the late Ron Popeil, "set it and forget it!"
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Post by healey36 on Sept 16, 2024 16:45:35 GMT
It only gets damp in the summer, for about ninety days. Otherwise, it's pretty dry down there. This is evidenced by the fact that there has been no need for a sump in the basement under the main part of the house. There is one under an addition built some twenty years ago, but that thing almost never pumps out. The small dehumidifier I have does a great job of keeping things dry, and the condensate gets emptied manually into the garden. It can be a pain during the dog days of August when heat and humidity reach the annual top-end, but not enough to fret over. The only thing that concerns me is it will generate some considerable heat when it's running nearly continuously. It's quite old, so I should probably just replace it with something newer, possibly a more efficient model (although my appliance guy tells me no new appliance will operate as long and as well as an old one). For now, I just keep an eye on it. If I go away for a day or two, I set the dehumidistat lower so it doesn't run nearly as much.
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Post by redjimmy1955 on Sept 17, 2024 12:25:06 GMT
If I need to remind my fellow forumites about safety, so here goes....DONT run around your layout holding open pointed scissors; remember to turn on a nearby fan when using glue or paint...NO the fumes aren't making you more creative; touching 120 volt wires to inside your nose is a bad idea; head on train collisions are allowed, after all, they're YOUR trains. And spilling adult beverages, on or near the tracks while running trains is a penalty of another beverage. The second beverage is to comfort you after the mishap with the first beverage. And yelling "toot....toot...toot" will get you to be 8 years old again, if even for a moment.
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Post by quietman on Sept 17, 2024 13:22:41 GMT
I'll add, splices bad in general unless soldered correctly and insulated with heat shrink, not tape. The kicker is, few people know how to solder splices correctly. I work in industry on control systems (think a massively more powerful and scaled up DCS) and there are times we do have to splice wires. It IS allowed by code on lower voltage and current conductors but must me done correctly. And yes, I'm trained in this. Been through the PACE soldering course and qualified on what was, back then, MilSpec 2000 (NASA high reliability soldering) requirements. BTW, NEC does allow "splicing" of 120V using wire nuts in boxes. But . . . wire nuts SUCK. Otherwise, use terminal strips with the wires landed correctly. This is actually the best wat to "splice" wires if you don't know how to solder well. If you need to split the signal from a wire- stay away from the crimp on splicers (picture below) and use a terminal strip. Even better, place the terminal strip in a box. If using the old fashioned terminal strip, use ring lugs or spade lugs to land the wires. Crimp them firmly into the lug. BTW, with many of us having 3D printers, you can print your own terminal box. If you want to spend the money, use DIN rail terminals, but those will cost way more than terminal strips. For my Christmas layout the transformer. Aux DC supply and LED supply, and MTH DCS pieces are all mounted on a board spaced to allow cooling. The terminal system used was scavenged from a pump control system, is pluggable and way over rated for the current and voltage. I simply place the board and hide it creatively, plug the other side of the terminal into the terminal strip jack on the board and everything is ready to go. Plans are to use this on the home layout if I can find time to do it. Also want to make the Christmas layout portable so it can go to Children's hospital or the Ronald McDonald house in the Denver area. As for circuit protection things are BOTH fused and have a breaker on them. Fuse has a higher rating than the breaker and is a backup. The output from the transformer to the DCS is protected, as well as the output from the DCS system to the track. So there is multiple redundancy. At home the whole thing is plugged into a GFI outlet for both the Christmas layout, and the in the future , home layout. Splicer example to stay away from
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Post by atsda on Sept 18, 2024 1:17:26 GMT
RedJimmy1955, LOL Alfred
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Post by atsda on Sept 18, 2024 1:20:20 GMT
Quietman, thank you for sharing your expertise. I don't solder any more now that I am blind - heat shrink, crimping , and terminal busses for low boltage and amperage is what I now do . I have this real nice speech-enabled multimeter. Alfred
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Post by firewood on Sept 21, 2024 0:50:11 GMT
Always worth taking the time to have a good look at your layout with a electrical safety-minded eye. I know we’re dealing with low voltages for the most part but my main thing is a master shut-off switch for the whole layout. In my case it’s just a simple surge bar on the floor that’s within reach of my big toe - click and go upstairs. Done. If the weather looks mean or we’re away it’s all unplugged. My splices if needed are soldered and heatshrink wrapped, otherwise it’s connectors and terminal strips. Circuit breakers on everything and everything within reach - no mystery connections far off in the under-layout gloom.
Other stuff? Dremel rotaries are vicious little beasts whether they have wire wheels, cutting discs or grinding stones. Get yer safety glasses on - that includes the extra-sized wraparounds that fit over regular glasses. The rest of our ugly mugs can take a poke or two but not eyeballs. Regular glasses have that monstrous space at the bottom corners to let all kinds of flying junk in - stick your finger in there for a trial sometime. Also, I find folks tend to reach for the power tools first - not so fast. It’s a hobby and sometimes the enjoyment and quiet of using hand tools is part of it all. As always, my $0.02 or less, Dave
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Post by atsda on Sept 23, 2024 15:35:26 GMT
Dave (firewood), has taken some good precautions. Thanks for the tips. One thing comes to mind that I now do routinely. That is, I always unplug tools when changing bits, blades, etc. It seems overly cautious, and time consuming, but it may help avoid an unnecessary accident. Never place your power tool in your lap between uses. Alfred
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