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Post by ron045 on Jul 2, 2024 11:50:37 GMT
At the Allentown Spring Thaw last February, I picked up this Lionel Boxcar for $5. I figured for $5, I would not feel bad about taking off the paint and making something new.
Here is what I created.
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Post by Country Joe on Jul 2, 2024 13:39:19 GMT
You did an outstanding job, Ron. The car looks great. 👍
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Post by david1 on Jul 2, 2024 16:07:07 GMT
Looks great Ron. Some people call the cars in front and back of hazardous cars are called crush cars. Never heard that term before although appropriate.
Dave
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Post by ron045 on Jul 2, 2024 16:32:11 GMT
Looks great Ron. Some people call the cars in front and back of hazardous cars are called crush cars. Never heard that term before although appropriate. Dave My son works for the SMS railroad and that is what they call them. I did some very quick research, and the NTSB calls them buffer cars. They are not only required in the front but also the rear (if in transit to a destination). Guess I better make another one. vr Ron
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Post by JDaddy on Jul 2, 2024 16:35:38 GMT
Very cool Ron.
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Post by redjimmy1955 on Jul 2, 2024 17:48:46 GMT
Gotta say, Ron....that boxcar looks great and properly crappy 'cause of the tags! Nice job!
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Post by Adam on Jul 2, 2024 17:54:39 GMT
Very realistic!
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Post by Traindiesel! on Jul 3, 2024 19:07:43 GMT
Very nice work, Ron! Thank you for sharing.
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Post by curtis on Jul 4, 2024 18:09:39 GMT
Ron
I believe it is in November, Railroads and Railfans is holding a 150 year celebration that involves SMS. Rides and shop tour. Are you booked yet?
Curtis
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Post by ron045 on Jul 5, 2024 2:36:54 GMT
Ron I believe it is in November, Railroads and Railfans is holding a 150 year celebration that involves SMS. Rides and shop tour. Are you booked yet? Curtis Thanks for letting me know. Vr Ron
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Post by BobS2056 on Jul 7, 2024 20:35:41 GMT
Looks great Ron. Some people call the cars in front and back of hazardous cars are called crush cars. Never heard that term before although appropriate. Dave My son works for the SMS railroad and that is what they call them. I did some very quick research, and the NTSB calls them buffer cars. They are not only required in the front but also the rear (if in transit to a destination). Guess I better make another one. vr Ron Ron, Great job, and thanks for sharing your information, I did not know about "crush cars" but makes sense to me now. Bob
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Post by harborbelt70 on Jul 10, 2024 10:24:25 GMT
You did an outstanding job, Ron. The car looks great. 👍 I agree. Thanks also for the tip about using clear coats between color coats/washes and in the process of applying decals. I don't think I'll ever get to the stage of doing heavy-duty weathering or graffiti - rivet and car number/name decals are probably the limit for me - but it is very interesting and helpful to see how its done.
P.S. I didn't catch everything you said about clear coating so do you use a lacquer, acrylic or something else? I've had the problem of a color acrylic finish showing streaks if a waterslide decal is applied on it but I have never been sure whether a hard, fast-drying lacquer clear coat can safely be applied over acrylic paint. Tru-Color is probably the best thing I have ever used because it is solvent-based and dries hard in a relatively short time. Alclad metallic finishes are also good but any blemish in the surface will show through; I understand that their clear coat is acrylic.
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Post by ron045 on Jul 10, 2024 16:59:03 GMT
You did an outstanding job, Ron. The car looks great. 👍 I agree. Thanks also for the tip about using clear coats between color coats/washes and in the process of applying decals. I don't think I'll ever get to the stage of doing heavy-duty weathering or graffiti - rivet and car number/name decals are probably the limit for me - but it is very interesting and helpful to see how its done.
P.S. I didn't catch everything you said about clear coating so do you use a lacquer, acrylic or something else? I've had the problem of a color acrylic finish showing streaks if a waterslide decal is applied on it but I have never been sure whether a hard, fast-drying lacquer clear coat can safely be applied over acrylic paint. Tru-Color is probably the best thing I have ever used because it is solvent-based and dries hard in a relatively short time. Alclad metallic finishes are also good but any blemish in the surface will show through; I understand that their clear coat is acrylic.
Thanks. I use a clear coat that matches the paint. Tamiya paint, Tamiya clear coat. Tru Color paint, Tru Color clear coat. I've had poor results in the past mixing chemistries of clear coats and paints.
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