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Post by rtraincollector on Apr 26, 2024 13:03:45 GMT
Firewood, I've kept quiet about the 0-6-0 Dockside switcher that everyone liked when it came out and hated it after owning it for a while. I have heard more problems with them than I can shake a stick at, Some had faulty coupler ( rear it would break ) the rest electronic one way or another. I fixed the coupler on mine and sold it.
It just seemed that little engine had one problem after another. Some where boards some motor, to me it was built with inexpensive parts from the git go.
Cute engine but troublesome. I do remember someone found a source at one time for replacement motors but forget where.
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Post by trainman9 on Apr 26, 2024 14:39:05 GMT
There is a difference between a circuit breaker and Transient Voltage Supressors. The former could take too long to react to a short circuit resulting in damage to the electronics especially if you run MTH DCS engines at 18 volts.
A TVS detects power surges in nanoseconds and directs them to ground. You don’t even know they happened unless you build the detection device outlined in the Washington DC Hi-Railers bulletin published many years ago by Frank Quall, an electronic engineer and member.
Good insurance for a buck even if you have never had a problem. It does not mean you might not have one in the future. I use a ZW-L that has some of the best power protection of any transformer but I still installed TVS’s on all inputs and outputs for additional insurance. I too have been operating various layouts since 1994 and have never had a board failure but it’s better to be safe than sorry.
However, I do respect everyone’s opinion and experience.
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Post by Country Joe on Apr 26, 2024 16:09:38 GMT
There is a difference between a circuit breaker and Transient Voltage Supressors. The former could take too long to react to a short circuit resulting in damage to the electronics especially if you run MTH DCS engines at 18 volts.
A TVS detects power surges in nanoseconds and directs them to ground. You don’t even know they happened unless you build the detection device outlined in the Washington DC Hi-Railers bulletin published many years ago by Frank Quall, an electronic engineer and member.
Good insurance for a buck even if you have never had a problem. It does not mean you might not have one in the future. I use a ZW-L that has some of the best power protection of any transformer but I still installed TVS’s on all inputs and outputs for additional insurance. I too have been operating various layouts since 1994 and have never had a board failure but it’s better to be safe than sorry.
However, I do respect everyone’s opinion and experience. Thanks for the info, trainman9. I’d never heard of a TVS before but I’m not at all knowledgeable about electronics.
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Post by superwarp1 on Apr 26, 2024 16:22:52 GMT
The only thing I trust to protect my trains. Built in TVS but the key is to prevent the spike in the first place so a Transzorb doesn't need to clamp the spike in the first place.
Updated version.
Small price to pay to protect your 2500 dollar engines.
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Post by rtraincollector on Apr 26, 2024 18:57:25 GMT
The only thing I trust to protect my trains. Built in TVS but the key is to prevent the spike in the first place so a Transzorb doesn't need to clamp the spike in the first place.
Updated version.
Small price to pay to protect your 2500 dollar engines.
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Post by superwarp1 on Apr 26, 2024 21:12:51 GMT
The only thing I trust to protect my trains. Built in TVS but the key is to prevent the spike in the first place so a Transzorb doesn't need to clamp the spike in the first place.
Updated version.
Small price to pay to protect your 2500 dollar engines.
The new one can be used for conventional trains. I confirmed that earlier in the week with the developer
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Post by ron045 on Apr 27, 2024 12:19:15 GMT
I know there are hobbyists who enjoy the whole electronic tinkering side of this pastime, but I’m not one of them. Once again the spectre of fried electronics rears its ugly head and I’m really getting fed up with it. The thought has occurred to me that I could gut every can-motored locomotive I have and just convert the layout to straight DC…I’m that P.O.’d. Here’s the latest frustration - I thought a conventional Lionel docksider 0-6-0T would have a decent lifespan, but it looks like one of its power transistors has cooked itself. Of course I was silly enough to check Lionel’s support site and of course the board is obsolete and unavailable. Your suggestions appreciated. Dave I feel your pain. I grew tired of MTH electronics being so finicky. I spend more time trouble shooting issues and making repairs rather than running trains. I left that world and now run Blunmai and RailPro. Look at how simple these boards are? Yet they are just as, if not more robust in features and what they can do compared to MTH PS3.  
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Post by rtraincollector on Apr 27, 2024 12:24:46 GMT
I know there are hobbyists who enjoy the whole electronic tinkering side of this pastime, but I’m not one of them. Once again the spectre of fried electronics rears its ugly head and I’m really getting fed up with it. The thought has occurred to me that I could gut every can-motored locomotive I have and just convert the layout to straight DC…I’m that P.O.’d. Here’s the latest frustration - I thought a conventional Lionel docksider 0-6-0T would have a decent lifespan, but it looks like one of its power transistors has cooked itself. Of course I was silly enough to check Lionel’s support site and of course the board is obsolete and unavailable. Your suggestions appreciated. Dave I feel your pain. I grew tired of MTH electronics being so finicky. I spend more time trouble shooting issues and making repairs rather than running trains. I left that world and now run Blunmai and RailPro. Look at how simple these boards are? Yet they are just as, if not more robust in features and what they can do compared to MTH PS3.
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Post by firewood on Apr 27, 2024 23:12:01 GMT
Just a word of appreciation for everyone’s ideas and input - it’s all very much appreciated, thank you! I’ve taken notes 👍👍. Well, just for fun(?) I tore the motor apart. I couldn’t believe how small it was at first sight, but then found even smaller innards. Those tiny carbon wafers are actual brushes - I think I’ve seen heftier commutators on N scale locomotives, never mind a chunky little diecast beast like the Docksider.🤷🏻♂️ I’m now surprised it lasted so long! I’m saving the worm to see what motor I can adapt. Dave    |
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