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Post by edlloyd on Mar 26, 2024 1:13:09 GMT
While at my locale hobby shop I was talking with the owner and he told me about how MTH numbered their trains. The last single digit on the item number is used to identify the card. A 0 is no card, a 1 is Protosound 1, a 2 is protosound 2, etc. I never knew that. Wish I had. Makes life easier. Just thought I would share incase you didn't know that also.
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Post by atsda on Mar 27, 2024 21:51:14 GMT
Ed, thanks for this useful info. Alfred
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Post by curtis on Mar 28, 2024 20:27:47 GMT
Hmmm I would not bank on that information. I have some that end in 1 and are PS3.
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Post by david1 on Mar 28, 2024 23:25:19 GMT
Sorry Ed but I think your hobby shop guy is wrong. I think he believes an old wives tale. I have some the same as Curtis.
Dave
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Post by ron045 on Mar 29, 2024 0:36:10 GMT
There is some thought to the numbering system... But above is not it.
The first 2 digits mean:
10 - Typically, some type of accessory
20 - Premier
22 - Premier (Scale Wheels)
30 - Rail King
40 - Realtrax and accessories
45 - Scaletrax
70 - 1 Gauge (Some might call this G)
80 - HO
There's more... but you get the point.
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Post by edlloyd on Mar 29, 2024 10:49:31 GMT
Hmmm I would not bank on that information. I have some that end in 1 and are PS3. Really...
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Post by edlloyd on Mar 29, 2024 10:50:08 GMT
There is some thought to the numbering system... But above is not it. The first 2 digits mean: 10 - Typically, some type of accessory 20 - Premier 22 - Premier (Scale Wheels) 30 - Rail King 40 - Realtrax and accessories 45 - Scaletrax 70 - 1 Gauge (Some might call this G) 80 - HO There's more... but you get the point. Maybe I did get some bad info......
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Post by redjimmy1955 on Mar 29, 2024 11:12:31 GMT
Say, Ed.....Did you mean to write C A R? what do you mean by "card"?
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Post by ron045 on Mar 29, 2024 12:02:29 GMT
When the OP said "card" I interpreted that as "board" like a PS2 board. But maybe he meant car as in train car type? Powered or Dummy? Ending numbers. -0 is HO (DCC Ready) -1 is a Powered Locomotive -2 is a Powered (Scale wheels) locomotive (Related to the 22 prefix number) -3 is a Dummy locomotive  |
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Post by healey36 on Mar 29, 2024 13:13:11 GMT
It's even more complicated than that...all of the tinplate locomotives and rolling stock had a "10-" prefix, and a "-0" suffix typically indicated it was traditionally powered, i.e. MTH's version of the open-frame motor and e-unit. A suffix greater than zero indicated a can-motor and Protosound in some form.
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Post by curtis on Mar 29, 2024 23:33:11 GMT
Hmmm I would not bank on that information. I have some that end in 1 and are PS3. Really... Yep. Sorry to put water on your boiler fire, but that info is DEFINITELY WRONG. Just got to the MTH site and look at a catalog.
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Post by bluelinec4 on Mar 30, 2024 13:05:37 GMT
When the OP said "card" I interpreted that as "board" like a PS2 board. But maybe he meant car as in train car type? Powered or Dummy? Ending numbers. -0 is HO (DCC Ready) -1 is a Powered Locomotive -2 is a Powered (Scale wheels) locomotive (Related to the 22 prefix number) -3 is a Dummy locomotive This is semi-correct -0 does not identify it as HO -0 is anything without any type of protosounds The original O scale DCRU equipped loco's and the locosounds loco's were all -0 If you combine the -0 with the prefix of 80- its an HO scale plain jane loco with no sounds that is DCC ready.
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Post by rtraincollector on Mar 30, 2024 14:25:35 GMT
I learned something yesterday also.
A prewar 384T tender and a MTH/LTI 384T tender mounting screw holes are not positioned in the same spot. if you flip them over and align them, they are are in same position except they spaced wider apart. Making it impossible to mount the one shell on the other frame. Also the MTH/LTI screw holes are kinda under a lip so it's very hard to get to them.
So my idea of buying a MTH/LTI whistle tender to put a prewar shell on is a bust. So now back to square one. 
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Post by edlloyd on Mar 30, 2024 14:27:24 GMT
I am back to be confused now. This doesn't appear to be as simple as I thought it was when it was explained to me. Guess I will just go back to how it looks and if it is pretty or shiny. lol. I do appreciate all the good feedback.
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Post by edlloyd on Mar 30, 2024 14:28:59 GMT
I learned something yesterday also.
A prewar 384T tender and a MTH/LTI 384T tender mounting screw holes are not positioned in the same spot. if you flip them over and align them, they are are in same position except they spaced wider apart. Making it impossible to mount the one shell on the other frame. Also the MTH/LTI screw holes are kinda under a lip so it's very hard to get to them.
So my idea of buying a MTH/LTI whistle tender to put a prewar shell on is a bust. So now back to square one. That sucks. Sounds like you have my luck.
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