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Post by lmadsen on Feb 1, 2024 15:03:22 GMT
If you need to add additional power to longer o gauge layouts can you use a multimedia to determine the most efficient way to do this. Certainly would save wire and time if it is possible. Thanks
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Post by curtis on Feb 1, 2024 15:19:44 GMT
Not positive on your question but generally a power drop is best for every 12-13 sections of track REGARDLESS OF LENGTH OF TRACK. Basically meaning it doesn't matter if it a 1.5 inch or a 30 inch section. Every 12 to 13 sections and you will not have any problem. I also used the star method back to a central terminal block as this is best for DCS rather than buss lines as used by most other types of operating systems. It also GREATLY simplifies they troubles shooting process it a problem does arise. I also used 16 gauge wire or even 18 gauge. I did use 14 gauge to feed the terminal blocks.
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Post by curtis on Feb 1, 2024 15:22:55 GMT
Just for a side note my layout is 34 x 55 feet, with the main table being 8 x 12 and the rest being large and small sections. Smaller is about 6 x 3 and other main section about 28 x 4.
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Post by harborbelt70 on Feb 1, 2024 17:25:24 GMT
If you need to add additional power to longer o gauge layouts can you use a multimedia to determine the most efficient way to do this. Certainly would save wire and time if it is possible. Thanks I've done this and on a circuit of years-old and much used track found two things: 1. The power output of a ZW-L transformer even at the connection nearest it never registered more than 16.5 volts on the powered rails themselves whatever the meter on the transformer said (commonly 20 volts); 2. Farther away and in between other connections it would drop to 13 volts or less unless I made sure the track was joined together firmly and clean. I found that cleaning the wheels of cars and engines meant that any visible signs of light flicker of either were eliminated.The worst thing was running a Lionel boxcar with a built-in voltmeter around the whole circuit and seeing it go all over the place in terms of track power measurement. But these are ropey devices and I go by the measurements taken on the surface of the rails.
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Post by steveoncattailcreek on Feb 1, 2024 18:31:49 GMT
Not positive on your question but generally a power drop is best for every 12-13 sections of track REGARDLESS OF LENGTH OF TRACK. Basically meaning it doesn't matter if it a 1.5 inch or a 30 inch section. Every 12 to 13 sections and you will not have any problem. I also used the star method back to a central terminal block as this is best for DCS rather than buss lines as used by most other types of operating systems. It also GREATLY simplifies they troubles shooting process it a problem does arise. I also used 16 gauge wire or even 18 gauge. I did use 14 gauge to feed the terminal blocks. Generally agree, though I've seen others suggest drops every 6-8 sections. In part, I think the type of track and drops you are using -- soldering directly to the rails is cheap but labor (and skill!) intensive, manufactured drops are easy but costly, so I generally use crimp-on connectors inserted between the rail sides from underneath tubular 3-rail track, which is both cheap *and* relatively easy!  Also, rather than pre-plan and create drops along each loop based on a formula, you can just start with a few drops and add a drop anywhere the trains hesitate or slow down on their own. Oh, and keeping the track and rolling stock wheels clean always helps, regardless of the number of drops. Good luck!
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Post by curtis on Feb 1, 2024 22:52:06 GMT
Not positive on your question but generally a power drop is best for every 12-13 sections of track REGARDLESS OF LENGTH OF TRACK. Basically meaning it doesn't matter if it a 1.5 inch or a 30 inch section. Every 12 to 13 sections and you will not have any problem. I also used the star method back to a central terminal block as this is best for DCS rather than buss lines as used by most other types of operating systems. It also GREATLY simplifies they troubles shooting process it a problem does arise. I also used 16 gauge wire or even 18 gauge. I did use 14 gauge to feed the terminal blocks. Generally agree, though I've seen others suggest drops every 6-8 sections. In part, I think the type of track and drops you are using -- soldering directly to the rails is cheap but labor (and skill!) intensive, manufactured drops are easy but costly, so I generally use crimp-on connectors inserted between the rail sides from underneath tubular 3-rail track, which is both cheap *and* relatively easy! Also, rather than pre-plan and create drops along each loop based on a formula, you can just start with a few drops and add a drop anywhere the trains hesitate or slow down on their own. Oh, and keeping the track and rolling stock wheels clean always helps, regardless of the number of drops. Good luck! I also like to make each of those 12 to 13 sections isolated from the next other than at the terminal block where they connect via the power drops.. It makes trouble shooting easy pezy! Is it overkill? I do not believe so as I have never had a track problem running Conventional, TMMC, Legacy or DCS. When assisting others I tell them this is the way to wire. For those who do not I usually spend time trying to chase down the problem of just end up rewiring the layout which is time consuming but never had anyone come back with problems. It also gives you an isolated rail as a side benefit.
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Post by ron045 on Feb 2, 2024 0:33:29 GMT
34 x 55??? That's a lot of work to wire and power transformers needed. How far into this are you? Just starting?
Consider going DeadRail. You'll love it.
vr
Ron
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Post by curtis on Feb 2, 2024 4:43:59 GMT
34 x 55??? That's a lot of work to wire and power transformers needed. How far into this are you? Just starting? Consider going DeadRail. You'll love it. vr Ron Currently using 2 - Z4000's with 2 more in reserve and a Lionel ZW-L in reserve. I use the 2 - Z4000's and a Z500 brick to power the TIU on the biggest table (4 loops). The rest is powered by 4 - Z1000 Bricks and another Z500 powering the second TIU. I also have some MISC Lionel transformers and some OLDER HO transformers powering different accessories.
I personally am not interested in deadrail although I fault no one for doing it. I have way too many engines and don't feel like converting them and hen converting them back if I want to sell them. Besides I actually enjoy wiring. That is my second best thing next to running the trains. I could do nothing but build layouts up to the scenery part and be perfectly happy. My Wife (conductor) takes care of all scenery.
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Post by atsda on Feb 4, 2024 2:32:39 GMT
madsen, a multimeter is indespensible. As Curtis says, add connections where there is low voltage; he also has good things to note regarding wire size. I routinely use a speech-enable multimeter to check many electrical parameters on the layout by hand - unlike harborbelt70 who has done a boxcar mounted meter - novel. I use post war Lionel tubular track. I make power connections by simply cripping a circular lug to the wire and inserting it in the slot on the underside of the center rail. This has worked out fine for my 8' x 22' layout - which is now dismantled. I had 13 O22 switches powered by a Lionel V transformer, and used it for train operation as well; along with a KW. I had insulated block loops that I could toggle on and off and switch transformers. For quick fixes on permanently mounted track, I cripped power connection to the track using a copper strip. Alfred
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