|
|
Post by Mopacman on Jan 12, 2024 2:00:13 GMT
On these cold Winter nights, I am taking time to go through the train collection. I have a Lionel 75th Anniversary U36B engine that has had limited run time over the years. It has started running intermittently only forward. I have cleaned it, oiled it, and cleaned the commutator. Also have carefully cleaned the brushes. That took care of the problem for a couple of days. Now it has started running only forward again. This engine is not one of my more expensive engines, but still fun to run once in awhile.
Does anyone have any suggestions on what might be causing this to occur?
Thank You
|
|
|
|
Post by josef on Jan 12, 2024 15:11:14 GMT
Not familiar with that engine, does it have an E Unit in it for switching to reverse? If so, these are usually the culprit when an engine only runs reverse and not forward. Spraying contact cleaner all over them until cleaner run clean will help.
Again, not sure about what type of internals your engine has.
|
|
|
|
Post by 4dogsinjersey on Jan 12, 2024 16:46:51 GMT
May be locked in one direction. Like Walter says, knowing what’s inside would definitely help with troubleshooting…
Tom
|
|
|
|
Post by david1 on Jan 12, 2024 17:26:56 GMT
I believe its a MPC engine with a mechanical e unit. I would check that and make sure its not set just for one direction.I believe in that era the switch may be on the bottom of the engine.
Dave
|
|
|
|
Post by Mopacman on Jan 13, 2024 3:03:16 GMT
Thank you to all who have posted suggestions. Yes, it does have a mechanical e-unit. It can be set to lock into one direction, or set to operate forward and reverse. The lever is set correctly, for both forward and reverse motion. I will try spraying contact cleaner on the e-unit to see if this helps. Will post the results of that process.
|
|
|
|
Post by Mopacman on Jan 15, 2024 18:11:33 GMT
Further investigation of the e-unit reveals a wire broken off. I had contacted Dallee Electronics regarding replacing the mechanical e-unit with a new #400 4 amp unit. He responded this morning, indicating that the #400 would work fine, as long as the motor is ok. He indicated that "the hardest part for most is finding the field (or brush in some cases) that is wired to the chassis (outside rail pickup) and to remove it from there to connect it to the #400. Other than that, it's a straight forward installation."
I will have to do some further investigation on this engine to see if I want to replace this e-unit.
|
|
|
|
Post by steveoncattailcreek on Jan 15, 2024 20:13:24 GMT
Further investigation of the e-unit reveals a wire broken off. I had contacted Dallee Electronics regarding replacing the mechanical e-unit with a new #400 4 amp unit. He responded this morning, indicating that the #400 would work fine, as long as the motor is ok. He indicated that "the hardest part for most is finding the field (or brush in some cases) that is wired to the chassis (outside rail pickup) and to remove it from there to connect it to the #400. Other than that, it's a straight forward installation." I will have to do some further investigation on this engine to see if I want to replace this e-unit. Mmm, well, I think you'd be a lot better off to just repair the broken wire -- it sounds like replacing the mechanical e-unit is more than a notion, and a solder repair is vastly cheaper than an electronic e-unit, even if you can get it installed. I can't think of anything the electronic version will give you that a simple repair won't. But, YMMV . . .
|
|
|
|
Post by david1 on Jan 15, 2024 21:43:34 GMT
I agree with steve, why spend money on a new eunit when a little solder is cheaper and does the same thing.
Dave
|
|
