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Post by eaaiii on Jan 5, 2024 14:26:42 GMT
Looking for assistance with anyone who has the subject item and uses an isolated rail activation (vs. infrared detection)
First question is whether anyone has anything good/bad to report about the product?
Second question is if I am operating by isolated rail, do I even need to wire up the block signal detectors (DZ-1011)? I was looking at the product instructions and it shows the block signal detectors wired up and I am trying to find out why they would be necessary for isolated rail activation.
Thanks for your help in advance.
-Ed Abbot
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Post by dennym57 on Jan 5, 2024 15:01:01 GMT
I use Z-Stuff. I like the infrared, all you have to do is connect it to power. I've never had an issue with them.
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Post by josef on Jan 5, 2024 15:32:35 GMT
I agree with dennym57. I use their infrared detectors and work great. But farther down I use the isolated trackage for their signals. Both have worked flawlessly on this and last layout.
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Post by eaaiii on Jan 5, 2024 15:37:58 GMT
Josef, Is there are reason to use the infrared detectors with an isolated section of track?
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Post by josef on Jan 5, 2024 15:46:46 GMT
Josef, Is there are reason to use the infrared detectors with an isolated section of track? Only voltage. I used a bunch of resistors to bring voltage down from 18Volts to the required voltage of Z products. Check the voltage of your signals requirements, don't exceed it.
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Post by eaaiii on Jan 5, 2024 17:11:23 GMT
Aha. An answer that makes sense. Thanks, Josef.
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Post by josef on Jan 5, 2024 18:12:31 GMT
You do not need an isolated track for the signals. An isolated track works were the wheels make the contact across to the isolated section and this isolated section is wired to the signal to activate it. When last wheel crosses, its a time delay that will then shut down the signal. With the infrared detectors set across from your roadway, and no need to have isolated section in your trackage, the detector (infrared) detect when an object like your train or testing your hand moves across the detector and closes the circuit to activate the signal.
Now the way I have my system set up with infrared and isolated tracks is that a roadway crosses a double track, a mainline and a siding. The mainline I have infrared detectors set up across the roadway each way to the signals to detect trains coming or going. Now for the siding, I just used isolated track pieces on both sides of the roadway crossover. The wire's are sent through resistors to lower the voltage. I did the same thing to the infrared detectors, using track power which go through the same set of resistors to lower voltage to recommended acceptance of the Z items.
Just remember on the Z items, watch your voltage, especially when using isolated tracks and powering the infrared detectors. A friend uses a dedicated transformer for all his Z products and resistors for isolated tracks powering signals.
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Post by eaaiii on Jan 5, 2024 18:56:38 GMT
Your setup appears to be a little more sophisticated than mine. In my case, I have road crossing of two sets of bi-directional tracks and both tracks are already isolated and I have wires coming down from the isolated rail. I don't want to use the infrared detectors for aesthetic reasons. If I need to use them purely for resistors, I was going to stash the detectors under a neighboring building. For all the signals on my layout, I have a dedicated transformer that has a maximum output of 14 VAC. The only place that the crossing signals would be hooked up to the rails is via the isolated (common) rail. I am still a novice at electrical stuff, so the concept of installing resistors is a new one for me. For that reason, I greatly appreciate all the help.
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Post by curtis on Jan 5, 2024 19:45:39 GMT
I use them on isolated rail. When I purchased them from Z Stuff my one and biggest question was I wanted to be able to know if a train was in a tunnel. I was told yes. NOT ENTIRELY TRUE!!! I have them wired as specified by them running on voltage that they said. If a train goes past the first signal it turns red. Past the second it turns red and the 1st is suppose to go yellow. Upon crossing the third signal it goes red the 2nd goes yellow and the first goes green. It works but the timers will also turn the signals and defeat the complete purpose. When asking for help from Z Stuff- answer was oh. I went to York and Purposely sought him out and discussed this again in detail. Again answer was oh. After purchasing 42 of these signals and getting oh I would not buy them again! And the real kicker - NEVER WORKED on letting me know if a train was in the tunnel if poser is turned off and back on again. EXPENSIVE WASTE in my book. Got me once but not a second time I assure you.
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Post by josef on Jan 5, 2024 22:02:52 GMT
Your setup appears to be a little more sophisticated than mine. In my case, I have road crossing of two sets of bi-directional tracks and both tracks are already isolated and I have wires coming down from the isolated rail. I don't want to use the infrared detectors for aesthetic reasons. If I need to use them purely for resistors, I was going to stash the detectors under a neighboring building. For all the signals on my layout, I have a dedicated transformer that has a maximum output of 14 VAC. The only place that the crossing signals would be hooked up to the rails is via the isolated (common) rail. I am still a novice at electrical stuff, so the concept of installing resistors is a new one for me. For that reason, I greatly appreciate all the help. If you already have the isolated tracks in place. No need for the infrareds at all. They won't act as resistors. Your signals lights are voltage sensitive and since your using the insulated rail as a source to your signals and the voltage coming off the tracks will be 18+, you need to get the voltage down with resistors or AC low voltage reducers which you can find on EBay and turn down to desired voltage. Myself, I had a box full of resistors and just used them in series till I got below required voltage and from there to the signals. So forget the infrareds, in fact you may like the isolated tracks better for your needs. Best advise, test your voltage before hooking up to lights. I have been in habit of going 1 volt below recommended, same for all my structures which call for 18Volts, I use 15 volts. Longer life span. If you need any help, let me know, but again, with insulated trackage, or isolated, you won't need the detectors at all.
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