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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2019 0:33:56 GMT
Here is a Lionel interior. It's in a bath of DOT 4 brake fluid. Why? Because Trey didn't like it. And if Trey doesn't like it, it the paint gets stripped and done again. Would most folks notice? NOPE. But I would. And that is what matters. FWIW and notes: The ONLY thing that will remove Tamiya synthetic lacquer without destroying plastic is brake fluid. You can barely even sand it off. That is all.
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Post by Country Joe on Nov 14, 2019 0:55:05 GMT
Trey, is it a passenger car interior?
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2019 1:16:42 GMT
I once repainted a tinplate loco 9 times because i wasn't happy with the gloss black paint. I still wasnt happy when it was done but I was the only one who didnt like the paint
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Post by thebigcrabcake on Nov 14, 2019 1:49:17 GMT
I once repainted a tinplate loco 9 times because i wasn't happy with the gloss black paint. I still wasnt happy when it was done but I was the only one who didnt like the paint I would be interested to hear your experience on this. I'm considering repainting a tinplate passenger car set but I'm worried about my ability to get the high gloss finish. Did you have to bake the loco. Any tips would be much appreciated. I want to avoid the situation Trey is in if at all possible. Emile
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2019 2:14:27 GMT
Emile, removing paint from metal is easy. Boiling water. It removes all paint on metal surfaces. Gloss is best achieved with Future polish.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2019 2:15:49 GMT
Trey, is it a passenger car interior? Yeah... one of three with excessive mold release agent. sigh...
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2019 2:17:49 GMT
I once repainted a tinplate loco 9 times because i wasn't happy with the gloss black paint. I still wasnt happy when it was done but I was the only one who didnt like the paint Been there brother. After a few years I forget what my hang ups were.
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Post by harborbelt70 on Nov 14, 2019 8:13:08 GMT
Quick question: which Lionel interior is it? From the color of the “bath” it could either be one of the recent Lionel ABS plastic moldings or one from an earlier aluminum car. Some of the earlier interior assemblies had separately applied seats and/or tables that were not painted but molded in colored or white plastic.
If painted in the lacquer you mention (the factory finish?) I’d probably coat it in a neutral primer and spray an entire new acrylic finish over that. Lacquer bonds so firmly with the plastic substratum that it is (a) a real PITA to get off and (b) generally will take a covering coat of just about any hobby paint without reacting with it.
Trouble is getting coverage on all the surfaces. A rattle can might be better for that than an airbrush. More generally I have given up on trying to brush paint on all those surfaces.
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Post by ptc on Nov 14, 2019 11:38:05 GMT
Add to your being dissatisfied, imagine what the elves would think who have to occupy the interior seats. Good decision, Trey.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2019 12:07:33 GMT
Quick question: which Lionel interior is it? From the color of the “bath” it could either be one of the recent Lionel ABS plastic moldings or one from an earlier aluminum car. Some of the earlier interior assemblies had separately applied seats and/or tables that were not painted but molded in colored or white plastic. If painted in the lacquer you mention (the factory finish?) I’d probably coat it in a neutral primer and spray an entire new acrylic finish over that. Lacquer bonds so firmly with the plastic substratum that it is (a) a real PITA to get off and (b) generally will take a covering coat of just about any hobby paint without reacting with it. Trouble is getting coverage on all the surfaces. A rattle can might be better for that than an airbrush. More generally I have given up on trying to brush paint on all those surfaces. It's one of my streamliner interiors. It's ugly brown plastic with molded seats. It is unpainted from the factory. I hit it with 2 coats of Tamiya fine surface primer and 2 coats of Tamiya color. I did go rattle on these because you can't see that much of it through the windows, but the brown was NOT cutting it. The release agent kept bleeding through the paint. Side Note: I'm going to make a mold for these for the future because Lionel has stopped reselling them as parts. I can just make these out of resin in the future...
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2019 17:10:47 GMT
Rather than making a mold. Could these possibly be done with a 3d printer?
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2019 18:02:55 GMT
Rather than making a mold. Could these possibly be done with a 3d printer? Yes, but given the cost of good quality media, resin is faster and more cost effective. Plus it can take a beating unlike many 3D printed parts.
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Post by Adam on Nov 14, 2019 18:03:22 GMT
Rather than making a mold. Could these possibly be done with a 3d printer? You could. In fact, someone has designed a printable coach interior: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2268410However, 3D printed parts will have a sort of grainy/less-than-smooth surface to it. it all depends on what type of outcome you would be comfortable with.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 15, 2019 3:14:03 GMT
I once repainted a tinplate loco 9 times because i wasn't happy with the gloss black paint. I still wasnt happy when it was done but I was the only one who didnt like the paint I would be interested to hear your experience on this. I'm considering repainting a tinplate passenger car set but I'm worried about my ability to get the high gloss finish. Did you have to bake the loco. Any tips would be much appreciated. I want to avoid the situation Trey is in if at all possible. Emile Emile, if I were going to do it again, i would take it to an auto body painter and have them paint it. They do gloss on everything and they are pros at it. In order to get the high gloss, you have to put the paint on thick not just multiple coats but heavy coats and that causes all kinds of issues
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Post by harborbelt70 on Nov 15, 2019 8:16:22 GMT
Quick question: which Lionel interior is it? It's one of my streamliner interiors. It's ugly brown plastic with molded seats. It is unpainted from the factory. I hit it with 2 coats of Tamiya fine surface primer and 2 coats of Tamiya color. I did go rattle on these because you can't see that much of it through the windows, but the brown was NOT cutting it. The release agent kept bleeding through the paint. Ah, now I geddit - the paint is self-inflicted [ ] but not the release agent. I have not come across that problem but now I will have to check and wash any unpainted parts/assemblies I use. I've found that spray primer seals up everything but I guess I have been lucky so far. The 3D printed parts linked above are very interesting but it depends on how fussy you are about smooth finishes. Even the FSD (fine surface detail) filament produces a fairly rough surface.
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