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Post by amich35 on Jan 29, 2024 6:36:22 GMT
Hi all, My wife got me a Lionel Banjo Crossing signal for the holidays and I can't get it to work properly. I'm using it with fastrack and I bought the accessory activator track which is supposed to, as I understand it, only activate the signal when a train is passing over it. It doesn't. After installing it according to the directions, as soon as I bring power to the track, the signal comes on and stays ons. Thinking that the track was perhaps not properly altered, I went to youtube and followed the directions there for creating your own by removing the connector on one piece of track and the connector and the little metal plate underneath on another piece. www.youtube.com/watch?v=NWKCyTdKgL4No difference. Then I took out the other connector piece so that the middle track was only connected to the other track at the middle rail. Still the signal lit up and and the banjo swung. Thinking that it could be defective , it then tried it with another accessory but it came right on too So what am I doing wrong? Could the track itself be carrying the current enough to activate the signal even without the connectors? Is it something else? I can provide pics if that would help. thanks Mike
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Post by josef on Jan 29, 2024 11:05:09 GMT
Lionel sells isolated track sections, which you need for signals to operate. There are also infrared detectors which Lionel and MTH sell which does the same, activate signals. The accessory activator is not needed and I would pull it out. Here's a better video showing Lionels isolated track and how it works and how you can make your own.
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Post by dennym57 on Jan 29, 2024 15:31:06 GMT
That video explains it nicely.
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Post by amich35 on Jan 29, 2024 17:47:01 GMT
Yes, that's what I did.
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Post by atsda on Jan 29, 2024 17:58:54 GMT
Is this a modern accessory or an old era one? Are the lights and banjo wired separately or not? - or just a hot/ common arrangement for both? Alfred
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Post by thebigcrabcake on Jan 29, 2024 18:09:15 GMT
Did you use all 3 pieces: The 2 Isolated tracks must be installed on both sides of the Insolated (activation) track. Trains rolling over the Isolated track send power to the insolated track which in turn sends power to the accessory (Which must be connected to the insolated track.)
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Post by josef on Jan 29, 2024 18:35:26 GMT
Without seeing pics of what your Lionel Banjo looks like, I do know the 140 and others only have 2 wires. In between the isolated tracks, take one wire to center rail and other wire to the isolated track only. You don't need the activation track and if your signal is constantly staying on, maybe because you have it wired to the activation track also. As your wheels from the rolling stock roll over the isolated track, the wheels will make a connection with the uninsulated track with the insulated section making a complete circuit. This complete circuit should now activate your Banjo signal, and continue as long as rolling stock is going over the isolated section. If you have a Ohm meter, check that there is no conductivity in the isolated section track part. If so, it might mean having to file a small amount at each end of the isolated section to make a gap.
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Post by amich35 on Jan 29, 2024 19:37:54 GMT
Hi, I appreciate the suggestions. It's a brand new banjo signal though I also tried it with an old Lionel crossing with a bell and it had the same problem. Here's a link to a youtube video I made showing the set up and problem: youtu.be/sPOehXG6wD8thanks Mike
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Post by josef on Jan 29, 2024 19:48:49 GMT
Hi, I appreciate the suggestions. It's a brand new banjo signal though I also tried it with an old Lionel crossing with a bell and it had the same problem. Here's a link to a youtube video I made showing the set up and problem: youtu.be/sPOehXG6wD8thanks Mike Went there and it said video is private so can't see it.
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Post by amich35 on Jan 29, 2024 20:56:16 GMT
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Post by josef on Jan 29, 2024 21:41:23 GMT
From what I see, doesn't look like the gap is wide enough. Even though the pins are pulled from both ends. Looks like the rail itself is touching. To see, just pull rail apart at both end with pins still slightly connected. Just enough to put a little more gap in were you pulled the pins. Also, you probable did it I'm sure but underneath you did pull the connecting strips off the isolated track right?
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Post by curtis on Jan 29, 2024 22:45:02 GMT
I believe Josef is correct. I also think the track is touching. Use an ohm meter and with poser off check to see if you have no continuity between the isolated side of the break and the other side. If it is open (like it should be make sure that between the isolation sections that the isolated rail has no connections other than the banjo to it.
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Post by amich35 on Jan 30, 2024 0:55:22 GMT
I did remove the connecting strips and suspected the rail was touching. I'll try your suggestions! thanks
Mike
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Post by amich35 on Jan 30, 2024 2:02:18 GMT
ok, I took the rails off and then like in one of the videos, used a dremel to "sand" down one side of the gap on each piece of the isolating track. After reassembling it, the gap is now clearly visible and the banjo crossing works like it is supposed to!
Many thanks!
Mike
PS: I've so far only shared my outdoor G scale layout but I realized that after the continued help this group provides, I owe you all a look at my indoor home office/ O gauge layout so look for a separate posting.
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Post by josef on Jan 30, 2024 10:07:32 GMT
ok, I took the rails off and then like in one of the videos, used a dremel to "sand" down one side of the gap on each piece of the isolating track. After reassembling it, the gap is now clearly visible and the banjo crossing works like it is supposed to! Many thanks! Mike PS: I've so far only shared my outdoor G scale layout but I realized that after the continued help this group provides, I owe you all a look at my indoor home office/ O gauge layout so look for a separate posting. I'll be looking forward to that G scale layout. Myself and probable others have thought about an outdoor G scale layout.
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