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Post by g3750 on Oct 15, 2020 12:27:04 GMT
I think I'm done with Euro-style terminal blocks, maneuvering under the layout to hold wires in place while I screw them down, and trying to figure out shoddy connections. The thought of making over 1,000 of these types of these makes my head spin. I've read about Wago Lever Nuts and want to give them a try, but have some specific questions. I'm hoping someone here has used them and can provide input. - How well do these work with small wires like those used in the Z-Stuff components, e.g. DZ-1008 relays & DZ-2500 switch machines? I believe these wires are 22/24 AWG and 24 AWG, respectively. What model of connector would you recommend for this purpose?
- Do these connectors come in multiple configurations? By that I mean, can connect multiple wires in the same housing, like the Euro-style terminal block?
- How do you mount these to plywood bench work? (I hate dangling wires).
- Are there other types of connectors I should be looking at for this purpose?
I would appreciate any help I can get on this. George
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Post by Country Joe on Oct 15, 2020 13:08:08 GMT
George, I never used Wago wire nuts so I can't help with that. I used standard wire nuts to make my connections and they've been very reliable. The Wago wire nuts look interesting so I'd like to learn more about them. Hopefully someone here will know more.
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Post by Charlie on Oct 15, 2020 13:59:47 GMT
Hey George, I did not know what a Euro-style terminal block was so I had to look it up. Can't you just use this type of terminal block? Even for small wires, it seems to work for me. It does not address the dangling wires, but that is solved with staples. The other benefit of the terminal strip is you can cut them to fit your specific need/area. Let us know what you decide on. Charlie
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Post by Deleted on Oct 15, 2020 15:13:27 GMT
Our layout is multi-level and 38 X 18 so we have a lot of wiring. Nails and staples are not allowed in the room. Screws are used for everything. We use terminal blocks available on E-Bay. Low price and excellent quality. Have various sizes. We hold wire with Gardner Bender multi cable staples available from Lowe’s, HD, or internet. We found some very cheap prices in the internet and ordered 20-25 bags at once. (We have a large amount of wiring. No holes are drilled and wires don’t have to be threaded thru holes, etc. Suitcase connectors work okay with all but the smallest wires. Be careful using them until you figure it out. We have had one problem, cut it out, and reattached. We use DCS so we do not have the number of track power drops that other layouts might have. Best prices by far have been on the internet. For small wires such as are used for lighting, Dave at Evan Designs showed us how to attach the small wires by twisting together and using heat shrink to hold them. If it is good enough for Dave, it is good enough for us. We have had no problems We use wire ties to clean everything up. Don’t know about the ones that you wrote about. We researched before we began and went with these. We have mostly used suitcase connectors on lighting except for the small LED connecting wires. I prefer terminal blocks for higher voltage but know others who use suitcase connectors for almost everything.
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Post by josef on Oct 15, 2020 15:39:20 GMT
When I redid my wiring for holding wiring in place, I used the rounded staples and lowered the pressure on my stapler so wires could still be pulled through and have some slack in case I ever needed to splice in. The best thing I did was color code everything since accessories ran the gamut from 3 volt DC, 4.5 volt DC, 12 Volt DC, and 18 volt track power to 12 Volt AC for AC Lighting accessories.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 15, 2020 18:55:45 GMT
I am with terminal blocks, wire nuts, heat shrinking for 24 gauge and 3/8" staples for holding the wires up. Everythinig is identified with sharpie pen writing on the underside of the layout and dangaling tags for the long runs.
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Post by g3750 on Oct 15, 2020 20:59:54 GMT
Guys, Thanks for all the responses. I typically use the larger terminal blocks for 12-20 AWG wire. I also use suitcase connectors for track buses and for switch buses. The smaller stuff like 24 AWG (Z-Stuff relays and switch machines) is a total PITA to thread into Euro-style terminal blocks. It's too small for crimping spades and U-shaped connectors. I decided not to go with the Wago lever nuts as they are, apparently, more suited to solid than stranded wire. I am trying these in both the 2-wire and 3-wire flavors. I will report back on how well they work. www.showmecables.com/ur-idc-buttsplice-19-26-awg-red-3-wire-gel-filledSomeone suggested wire nuts to me. I've never had any luck using them. Ever. Thanks again. George
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Post by harborbelt70 on Oct 15, 2020 22:34:09 GMT
That’s quite a name on that product (“Buttsplice”). On that account alone I doubt I’d use it!
But what do I know? ALL wiring connectors are a PITB as far as I am concerned. The only wiring I do tends to be inside a loco or car and I generally stick with the simplest ones I can get, which come from Evan Designs. The worst thing is trying to match any existing Molex connectors. I have a kit to do it but it takes skills and patience I have not got.
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Post by fabforrest on Oct 15, 2020 23:20:16 GMT
I had the grandest plans for organized wiring. Did not happen.
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Post by Adam on Oct 15, 2020 23:26:51 GMT
I define successful wiring is wiring that works. Mine is certainly not pretty. If the trains run, the lights go on and the crossing gates move, then I am happy.
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Post by jimk on Oct 16, 2020 0:00:09 GMT
These butt splices have been around for a long time. The old telco splicers called them beans. I have seen a 600 pair telco cable splice using these to take a 100 pair of wires off to somewhere else. Then they put all the beans inside a case and fill it with gel to keep the water out. Then when the water gets in they look around for another pair of wires that still work. Or they use to in the time long long ago. So you are going from the insanely small Z-Stuff wire to a larger wire. This might do it. One can also get a splice that you insert the Z-stuff wire into at one end, crimp it down and the wire at the other end is larger.
Jim K
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Post by Traindiesel! on Oct 16, 2020 0:10:52 GMT
I use Posi-Lock connectors exclusively for my layout wiring. They have connectors for gauges 6 through 24. The great thing about them is they are reusable, for making changes or dismantling a layout and rebuilding.
I particularly like the Posi-Tap connector for splicing wire drops to a bus wire. You can add four 16ga. drops to a single Tap on the bus wire.
Check out the link for info and a demonstration. They are available in some stores but not usually in bulk. I ordered everything I needed from the website. Hope this is helpful!
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Post by g3750 on Oct 16, 2020 0:28:02 GMT
I use Posi-Lock connectors exclusively for my layout wiring. They have connectors for gauges 6 through 24. The great thing about them is they are reusable, for making changes or dismantling a layout and rebuilding.
I particularly like the Posi-Tap connector for splicing wire drops to a bus wire. You can add four 16ga. drops to a single Tap on the bus wire.
Check out the link for info and a demonstration. They are available in some stores but not usually in bulk. I ordered everything I needed from the website. Hope this is helpful!
This is VERY helpful. Thank you! You're a pretty good guy (for a Flyers fan ). Thanks!!
George
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Post by rtraincollector on Oct 16, 2020 0:57:30 GMT
Okay guys now you can scream.
I built my framing out of 2 x 4's and to hold my wires up I drilled holes to run my wires. I built 8' x 8' then resupported it by cutting that down to 4' x 4'. I use 3 1/2" crews to hold everything together. two at each connection. I also use 2 x 4's for legs and every corner ( of the 4' x 4' area has a leg coming down. ) so I have 20 legs at present and will continue build onto my 12' x 16' layout in the same manner. I also use 3/4" plywood on top and used 2 1/2" screw to screw it to the framing. between the 2 x 4's and the 3/4" plywood that framing/table is very strong. before I put any trains on it. I got up on it and jumped to check for strength, and it didn't budge, so if I can jump on it at 260 LBs I think it is strong enough.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2020 12:49:19 GMT
RT your frame work build sounds similar to mine. I also used the Posi-lock connectors per Charlie's (MichRR714) recommendation. Glad I did. They have worked great and saved tons of install time.
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