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Post by 4dogsinjersey on May 18, 2020 14:18:18 GMT
Not all my painting projects turn out as planned. I did a tank car recently, that didn’t turn out so well. It was a silver body with a black frame. The paint worked out great.
Unfortunately, I have not been able to get any clear gloss coat to apply before doing the decals. I normally use Testors gloss coat, but the delivery has been delayed for quite a while. I made the mistake of using some satin finish clear coat, figuring it was close enough. It wasn’t.
The decals were great but the satin finish allowed the decal film to show. This was not a good thing as the silver paint highlighted the decal borders. I trimmed the decals closely but the borders were still visible. After some decal setting solution, they still looked bad.
I let the whole thing dry for a day. I figured I would try weathering the car to hide the crappy decal film. Well, that was a mistake. Spray can weathering spray just doesn’t work. I tried to be light with the coating but the can just put too much out. I have an airbrush and that is really the best tool to use for weathering. More control with that.
So basically the car was ruined. I put it away for now and plan on stripping it and doing it over again when I obtain the correct materials to do it right...
Tom
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Post by Joe Saggese on May 18, 2020 14:29:23 GMT
I have a bin full of models I messed up on and plan on doing in the future. Its a few years old now
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Post by harborbelt70 on May 18, 2020 14:38:53 GMT
It is a bore but also a learning curve when things like this happen; I sympathize. In your position I'd also put the project aside for a while and wait until all the right materials are on hand.
Speaking of materials, I seem to remember a recent thread on another forum in which the use of dry transfer lettering on steam engines was discussed, the specific project being lettering a UP loco and tender. Apparently there's a supplier for scale lettering that matches both the font and color used by UP. The advantage of such dry (or self adhesive) letters was that they could be applied over rivets and some other surface detail without the failure of decal sheets to conform to such surfaces.
But lettering is not the same as graphic design and for some things only decals will produce a scale version. I have tried a variety of gloss coats over decals of this kind and found that Alclad II works best. It actually looks like floor polish in the bottle but goes on perfectly clear.
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Post by Yellowstone Special on May 18, 2020 14:39:46 GMT
Sorry to learn of your “reject project,” Tom. It’s frustrating when you can’t get the right materials, so try something close with unfavorable results, then have to start over. I know the feeling. But being the master modeler you are, we know your tank car will be an eventual success. 👍
harborbelt: Thanks for the tip on Alclad II.
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Post by Deleted on May 18, 2020 14:57:09 GMT
I let the whole thing dry for a day. I figured I would try weathering the car to hide the crappy decal film. Well, that was a mistake. Spray can weathering spray just doesn’t work. I tried to be light with the coating but the can just put too much out. I have an airbrush and that is really the best tool to use for weathering. More control with that. So basically the car was ruined. I put it away for now and plan on stripping it and doing it over again when I obtain the correct materials to do it right... Tom Tom, When weathering, could I suggest using powders. You can get a kit with model train related colors, like dirty brown, rusty, grimey black, white etc and the brushes. Dab on the powder, lightly brush it out and examine your work. Keep going and if you do not like it, take a damp rag and wipe it all off. Once you get it, drive around the layout and touch up as you like. When you are satisfied, spray with clear coat. I also use a Qtip dampened to increase the density of the powder. Avoid spary paint, it is unforgivable.
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Post by Adam on May 18, 2020 15:00:02 GMT
I’ve learned throughout the years that getting good at anything requires you to first be bad at it for a while. Without failure there can be no success.
I’m new to a lot of the painting, rebuilding, modifying part of this hobby and I am in the bad, I mean learning, phase as well.
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Post by ptc on May 18, 2020 15:02:16 GMT
When working on a future OGF Club Vehicle, I learned from the experts that not all finishes do well with decals. Not surprised that you had issues.
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Post by Deleted on May 18, 2020 15:23:14 GMT
Tom , after seeing your other projects - looking forward to seeing tank car weathering round 2! My last layout build had quite a few failures things I just didn't like after they were done. I tried using metal bed frame to build a bridge. People liked it but I just couldn't see past it being bed frame. My ocean attempt ... well we'll just say failed. I decided to build a waterfall that was very wide and went to the floor. Loved the idea but after I was in the middle of it it just never looked right to me. I am sure I'll run into similar issues with my current build. Just an old fart that is still learning!
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Post by Deleted on May 18, 2020 15:41:38 GMT
I’ve learned throughout the years that getting good at anything requires you to first be bad at it for a while. Without failure there can be no success. I couldn't agree more, failure and determination is the beginning of success.
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Post by dennym57 on May 18, 2020 15:47:49 GMT
What's the old saying? "You have to crawl before you can walk".
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Post by RLM on May 18, 2020 17:08:56 GMT
Tom, happened to my too. on a Brass hand made box car. lot of hours cutting and soldering for a decal mistake, but as Wood said, with chalks and powders you can make up that. I will find the picture and show you.
Another good,but little complicated option is a air eraser. is like and air brush but work with sand or baking soda. adjusting the flow you can do a fine job fading the decals. AG.
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Post by 4dogsinjersey on May 18, 2020 18:54:23 GMT
Thanks for all the support and pointers. The weathering was an attempt to hide the crappy decal situation. It just went from bad to worse. I never intended to weather the car, actually.
I have done quite a bit of weathering in the past, mainly HO stuff. I always used an airbrush set up, which I still have, and had good results with it.
I may give the powders a try. I plan on weathering a few pieces in my collection, but not everything.
I contacted my supplier and they are out of certain items I need, but the good news they are restarting production next week after a state mandated shutdown.
If worse comes to worse, there is alway Krylon clear gloss spray...lol.
Tom
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Post by Country Joe on May 18, 2020 19:03:36 GMT
Stuff like this happens even to the best of us. Something goes wrong or doesn't work the way you think it will and then things just get worse as you try to fix it. I'm glad you aren't letting it get you down. The only thing to do is take a break and then start over. I'm sure you'll end up with a great model but in the meantime it's as frustrating as all get out.
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Post by 4dogsinjersey on May 19, 2020 14:07:00 GMT
Well, the trauma finally wore off a bit, to the point where I can make my goof public record. Here is the car that caused all the trouble...lol... Tom
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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2020 14:41:29 GMT
Well, the trauma finally wore off a bit, to the point where I can make my goof public record. Here is the car that caused all the trouble...lol... Tom I said it on another thread but i like the weathering on that car.
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