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Post by Adam on Apr 5, 2020 0:24:54 GMT
Very nice, looks good to me. Certainly looks more like what you would see in the wild.
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Post by josef on Apr 5, 2020 11:28:01 GMT
Forrest - congrats on jumping in with weathering! I've tried a little myself, but still have a lot to learn. I did a boxcar similar to yours so I snapped a few pics. I'm not entirely happy with it and may redo it at some point. If you want, an easy first step is to take some 220 sandpaper and start wearing away some of the logo and lettering. I would just go in on direction - either top to bottom or left to right. When you're satisfied with that, hit the whole car with dull coat. You can then take some rust colored powders or paints to the metal parts. On the simulated wood you can rub in some general brown or gray to simulate dirt or grime. Remember that in real life, dirt and grime tend to collect around and in nooks and crannies. Keep going! It's fun to try different materials and techniques. And don't forget YouTube - I'm sure there are a ton of video tutorials out there. Have you considered a black wash? Not only does this tone down shiny, but also brings out details and very effective on wood sided rolling stock. I do it to most of my rolling stock, or just Dull Coat spray to get that shiny plastic toned down.
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Post by fabforrest on Apr 5, 2020 11:55:38 GMT
Not sure how to do a black wash.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2020 11:58:37 GMT
OK. here is version 2. wiped version 1 away. this time, I did work from a photo and was trying for a general, overall dirty look without the dramatic stuff. i also colored some of the detail moldings, which, I think, helps. better? You NAILED them Forrest!! Superb Job! Those reefers look GREAT! Gary.
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Post by josef on Apr 5, 2020 12:21:19 GMT
Not sure how to do a black wash. Get some acrylic black, (I get mine from WalMart). I save and use bottle tops, mouthwash, etc. size, pour a small amount, really small, add several drops of water and stir until its like water thin. Take a soft brush and brush onto the item lightly and don't let the black accumulate into a dark black spot. If so, use a paper towel to draw off. You can repeat after drying to darken more as to your liking. I use this also on buildings stone work to darken some or all the stone work. Bring out details on cornice, etc. When done, spray with a flat clear coat. Here's just a couple samples were I recently used a black wash.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2020 12:25:42 GMT
Not sure how to do a black wash. Get some acrylic black, (I get mine from WalMart). I save and use bottle tops, mouthwash, etc. size, pour a small amount, really small, add several drops of water and stir until its like water thin. Take a soft brush and brush onto the item lightly and don't let the black accumulate into a dark black spot. If so, use a paper towel to draw off. You can repeat after drying to darken more as to your liking. I use this also on buildings stone work to darken some or all the stone work. Bring out details on cornice, etc. When done, spray with a flat clear coat. Here's just a couple samples were I recently used a black wash.
Your black wash really enhances the items Walter! Superb job. Gary.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2020 13:33:52 GMT
Second round looks better. Black washing is fairly easy. Practice on scrap plastic.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2020 14:32:27 GMT
If you really want to go crazy pick up an airbrush as well Looks great. #2 is a huge improvement
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2020 16:11:57 GMT
Forest, second try is much better. You are thinking about the details and working from a photo. I agree with Walter, a black wash first, let it dry thoroughly, then add some powders if you like. If you apply a black wash, apply it from the top down, vertically as rain would create streaking down the sides of the boxcar. You can also make black washes that are different strengths, meaning a higher color content per container of liquid. You are on the right track. Pun intended! Andy
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2020 16:44:46 GMT
Fab, your second shot is much better because you removed that rust streak and it looks good. Unless a car is a 50 years old derelict you do not see much rust, it is graffiti and dirt. I would also suggestion removing the rust from the trucks. Generally speaking they are covered in ice/dust/mud. Rust is not common because there is so much lubrication on the trucks which dirt attaches too. It is a good place for dirty dirt powders then sprayed with flat clear coat.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2020 16:51:07 GMT
Second version is much better Forrest! My only suggestion is that the whiteness of the word Miller in the emblem looks too new now. Dirty that up a bit.
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Post by nicky on Apr 6, 2020 0:07:44 GMT
Forest, all I can say about weathering cars, or locomotives is practice. Start on cars that you do not have value to you. I also recommend doing a little research on the cars that you want to do. The internet has a lot of great photos to use as examples. I also like to sit by the tracks and take pictures for reference. Another tip is less can be more. You are starting out right. I enjoy weathering cars, have not tried a engine yet. Its been a few years since I have worked on a car, we had moved , but the new train room is now finished and looking forward to hammering out some new work. Here is my last car, still a lot of learning but I found my prototype on RR pictures site for a reference. So Keep Practicing and Take notes with what works for you .
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Post by nicky on Apr 6, 2020 0:12:09 GMT
Here is another car with a lite fade and a wash with acrylics. Less is more.
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Post by nicky on Apr 6, 2020 0:21:09 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2020 1:18:15 GMT
Also don't forget how rust and grime streaks are vertical. The ends of the cars are also as important as the sides. Be sure to highlight any ridges, bolt and plates with a dark wash. These are the areas that collect all the grime and exhaust from rolling down the rails. Sorry for so many posts, look forward to your next work. AWESOME WEATHERING NICKY!!! Gary.
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